La Maddalena Beaches: Where to Swim, Snorkel and Escape the Crowds
Plan a beach day on La Maddalena and Caprera, from Spalmatore's granite boulders to Cala Coticcio's cove, with ferry access from Palau and boat trips to Spargi.
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The beaches of La Maddalena and Caprera deliver a specific kind of Sardinian day: pale sand wedged between pink-grey granite boulders, water that shifts from green to blue within a few steps, and enough space on the smaller coves to feel you have left the Costa Smeralda crowds behind. They reward travellers who treat the archipelago as a full day rather than a quick stop, because the ferry crossing and the driving on the islands eat into beach time.
This guide is written from Olbia, the usual arrival point for northeast Sardinia. It covers what each main beach is like, how to reach it by road or on foot, where the ferry leaves from, and how boat trips to the outlying islands compare with a car-based day. Use it to pick the beach that fits your group rather than trying to tick off every cove.
Getting there: Olbia to Palau and the ferry crossing
Ferries to La Maddalena leave from Palau, the port town on Sardinia's northern coast. The drive from Olbia takes a little under an hour, following the same road that continues to Santa Teresa Gallura. In the summer season the crossing runs hourly; one traveller's account caught the 10:00 departure after buying tickets at the port on arrival, and the crossing itself took just under an hour before docking in La Maddalena town.
Bringing a car across costs only a few euros more than a foot passenger fare according to the same account, and having wheels on the island makes the difference between seeing one beach and seeing four. Without a car, you are limited to La Maddalena town and whatever you can reach on foot or by local transport, so decide before you buy your ticket. Arrive at Palau with time to spare in July and August, when the hourly sailings fill with day-trippers.
Getting around: the Caprera bridge and the road loop
La Maddalena town is compact and walkable, with cobbled streets, cafes and sea views, and it makes a sensible base for lunch before or after the beach. From town, a bridge connects La Maddalena to Caprera, the second island, which is mostly national park land. Driving the full perimeter of La Maddalena takes about an hour, so a car lets you sample several beaches in a day without rushing.
Caprera has no hotels and only limited services: camping facilities, a few roadside snack bars and plenty of beaches, according to the same source. That makes it the quieter half of the archipelago but also means you should carry water, food and shade if you plan to spend the afternoon there. The southern peninsula has a string of beaches along the road, so you can stop, swim and move on without a long detour.
Spalmatore beach: granite boulders and clear water
Spalmatore, on La Maddalena's west side, is the beach most visitors remember. Large granite boulders frame pale sand and clear turquoise water, and the setting drew comparisons with the Seychelles in one account of a day trip. It is the kind of beach where you settle for the morning rather than passing through, so give it the best hours of your day.
The boulders create natural shade at the back of the beach and shelter from some wind directions, but they also mean the entry to the water varies along the shore. Families with small children should walk the beach first and choose a stretch where the sand slopes gently rather than stepping straight off rock. Bring reef shoes if you plan to explore the rocky edges, where the snorkelling is best.
Cala Coticcio on Caprera: the small cove
Cala Coticcio, on Caprera, is one of the small coves that gives the archipelago its reputation: a compact turquoise bay reached on foot rather than by car. It sits within the national park, so the approach is a walk along rocky paths rather than a stroll from a car park. Allow proper time for the walk each way and wear shoes with grip, because the granite is uneven and hot in the middle of the day.
Because the cove is small, it fills quickly in high season and offers little room for a family camp with umbrellas and cool bags. It suits strong walkers, couples and confident swimmers who want clear water and a sense of seclusion more than convenience. Carry everything you need in and take everything out, since there are no facilities at the cove itself.
Caprera's southern beaches and roadside stops
The southern peninsula of Caprera has a series of beaches along the road, several of them highlighted on local tourist office maps. They are easy to combine into a loop: park, swim, dry off and drive ten minutes to the next. One visitor found none quite matched Spalmatore, but the trade-off is space and a quieter atmosphere, especially away from the main access points.
Roadside snack bars provide simple food and drink along the Caprera roads, which is useful if you have not packed a picnic. For a full day, base yourself at one of the southern beaches in the morning and drive back through La Maddalena town for lunch. The Bassa Trinita area is one of the better-known stretches on the island and works well as a first stop if you arrive on the morning ferry.
Spargi, Budelli and Santa Maria by boat
The outlying islands are where the archipelago looks most like the postcards, and a boat trip is the practical way to reach them. Spargi is known for hidden coves, white sand and clear water that appeals to snorkellers; Santa Maria is quieter, with calm water for swimming; Budelli is famous for the Spiaggia Rosa, whose pink colour comes from fragments of coral and shell. Boat trips from Palau and Cannigione typically stop at Santa Maria and Spargi and pass the Spiaggia Rosa.
The Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli is protected, so visitors admire it from the water rather than walking on the sand. That is worth knowing before you book: if the pink beach is the draw, choose a trip that includes a pass by Budelli and expect to stay on the boat. A boat day also removes the need to drive between beaches, but you lose the freedom to linger at Spalmatore or explore Caprera at your own pace.
The sand and the water
Most La Maddalena beaches are pale sand backed by granite, with the rock running down to the water in places and forming small shelves and pools. The water deepens at different rates along the same beach, so pick your spot by watching where others are standing instead of taking it that the whole bay is shallow. The granite also shelters some stretches from the wind, which matters on days when the maestrale is blowing.
Wind direction shapes the day here. When it blows from the north-west, the west-facing beaches such as Spalmatore take the brunt, and the southern beaches of Caprera are more comfortable. Check the forecast the evening before and choose your coast accordingly rather than committing to one beach in advance.
Facilities on Maddalena and Caprera
La Maddalena town has shops, cafes and restaurants, so you can buy lunch and supplies before heading to the beach. Caprera is much more limited, with camping facilities and a few roadside snack bars but no resort infrastructure, according to the same account. Plan on carrying water, food and shade for a Caprera beach day rather than relying on finding a lido.
For sunbeds, showers and other beach services, the town beaches and the better-known stretches near La Maddalena are the safer bet. If a serviced beach matters to your group, start there rather than at a remote Caprera cove where you may find nothing but sand and rock.
Best time to go
The swim season runs from late spring into early autumn, with July and August the busiest and the most expensive for ferries and accommodation. June and September give warm sea and shorter queues at Palau, and the hourly summer ferry timetable means you can still build a full day. Sea temperatures in June and September are comfortable for most swimmers, while October cools quickly.
Arrive at Palau early in high season to catch the first sailings, and plan to return in the late afternoon rather than at the last minute. One day-tripper completed a loop of both islands by 16:00 and caught the ferry back with time for a Costa Smeralda drive on the way home. That pace is realistic only with a car and an early start.
Who each beach suits
Families with small children are best served by the town beaches of La Maddalena and the easier roadside beaches of southern Caprera, where you can park close to the sand and retreat to town for lunch. Spalmatore works for mixed groups who want a memorable setting with room to spread out, though the granite shelves call for care with toddlers. Cala Coticcio suits fit walkers and couples who value the cove itself over convenience.
Snorkellers should head for the rocky edges at Spalmatore and the outlying islands on a boat trip, where the water is clearest. Quiet-seekers should skip August and head for Caprera's southern coves on weekdays. Hikers get the best of the archipelago by combining a walk to Cala Coticcio with the coastal paths and the bridge crossing into Caprera.
Nearby beaches on the drive back to Olbia
The drive back from Palau to Olbia passes the turn-offs for the Costa Smeralda, and a detour along the coast road adds polished resort beaches and the town of Porto Cervo to the day. Many of the best beaches along this stretch sit below the road and are easy to miss, so treat the drive as a scenic route rather than a beach-hopping plan. If you are weighing up another Sardinian base, the best beaches in Alghero offer a west-coast alternative with a similar mix of sand and coves.
South of Olbia, the coast around San Teodoro offers another day's worth of beaches and a gentler drive than the Maddalena loop. Cala Brandinchi is the best-known of these, with shallow water and a setting that works for families. If you have a week in the area, pair a Maddalena day with a San Teodoro day rather than trying to fit both into one.
Plan Your Visit
A La Maddalena beach day works best when you commit to one plan: either take the car across on the morning ferry and split the day between Spalmatore and Caprera, or leave the car behind and join a boat trip to Spargi, Santa Maria and the Budelli viewpoint. Trying to do both in one day leaves too little time in the water.
Pack reef shoes for the granite, water and shade for Caprera, and cash for the ferry and roadside snack bars. Check the ferry timetable with the ferry company and the sea forecast with the La Maddalena tourist office before you set out, then choose your coast to match the wind.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Maddalena?
Take the ferry from Palau, which runs hourly in summer and takes just under an hour to reach La Maddalena town. The drive from Olbia to Palau takes a little under an hour. Bringing a car across is possible for a small extra charge, and having one on the island makes it far easier to reach the beaches on La Maddalena and Caprera.
Which La Maddalena beach is best for families?
The town beaches and the roadside beaches of southern Caprera are the easiest for families, because you can park close to the sand and return to town for lunch. Spalmatore is memorable and has room to spread out, but the granite shelves mean you should watch small children near the water. Walk the beach before settling and pick a stretch with a gentle slope.
Can you reach Cala Coticcio without a boat?
Yes. Cala Coticcio on Caprera is reached on foot along rocky paths rather than by car or boat, so allow time for the walk each way and wear shoes with grip. The cove is small and has no facilities, so carry in water, food and shade and take everything out with you.
Do boat trips stop at the Pink Beach on Budelli?
Trips pass the Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli so passengers can admire the pink sand from the water, but the beach is protected and visitors do not walk on it. Book a trip that includes Budelli if the pink beach is your priority, and expect to stay on the boat at that stop.
Should you take a car to La Maddalena?
Take the car if you want to see more than one beach. It costs a few euros more on the ferry, and it lets you drive the perimeter of La Maddalena, cross the bridge to Caprera and stop at several coves in a day. Without a car you are limited to the town and what you can reach on foot.
Sources
Beach notes for your next trip
Optional updates when we add or revise beach guides.
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